Santa had one too many tortillas in the lead up to christmas (cc) Bart Fields
So you thought the festive season was going to pass by without a mention of what to see in Spain at Christmas? Wrong. I’m just as much of a fan of Chris Cringle as the rest of you. That’s why I’ve come up with this timely list of kick-ass things to see during the the holiday season guaranteed to get you saying a big “feliz navidad” (that’s Merry Christmas for the dumb folk among you!).
The best thing about this whole list? You don’t have to live or visit any particular part of Spain to get an eyeful.
Caga Tio
Caga Tio or “poo log” as I like to call him (better than the direct translation of “uncle shit”), has to be a must-see for the more scatologically-curious visitors among you. A typically Catalonian tradition, Caga Tio isn’t something fished from the toilet after a night on the tapas, but is instead a small wooden object placed on two logs with a big shit-eating (don’t excuse the pun) grin painted on for extra oomph.
Caga Tio: a strange part of Christmas (cc) Josep MA Rosell
Head to Spain in early December and you’ll even see Catalonians giving Caga Tio a few morsels of food and a blanket to keep the little brown stool warm. The charitable lot!
The point of this Christmas poo? Come Christmas Day he gets battered by stick-wielding families and spits out gifts in the shape of sweets and little trinkets. Apparently this all helps aid his “digestion”.
Bet you weren’t expecting fecal matter to comprise a “what to see in Spain at Christmas” list were you? Check out Orange Polka Dot’s post for a stinkier explanation.
The Nativity: Coming to a Hall Near You
Stick around Spain at yuletide and you’ll soon see models of the nativity popping up in locals houses. Good old Jesus, Mary, Joseph and the Three Kings (or were they wise men?) wait a good twelve months for an airing so show your appreciation by flushing any spotlight stealing poo log firmly down the pan.
The nativity: something you should never be scared of (cc) El coleccionista de instantes
Why are they on this kick-ass list? Because there’s nothing more spookier than heading down to a Spanish city hall to see a live nativity in progress. There’s always a few Jésus’ present at these types of things.
Check out this video of a Belen Viviente (live nativity) in Andalucia posted up at Live Share Travel.
Tienda Treats
What to see in Spain at Christmas other than the strange Catalonian curiosities and serene city halls? Yup, you guessed it, food.
Walk past neighourhood tiendas (local shops) at this time of year and you’re in for a visual, as well as gastronomic, feast. See shop fronts displaying turrón (the nougaty almond-based treat), los polverones (soft, crumbly, cinnamon cakes), marzipan figurines and roscon (chocolate or cream-filled cake eaten usually with a gift hidden inside).
Polverones: your teeth's worst nightmare (cc) Keith Williamson
Still wandering what else will make you drool? Check out Spanish Sabores recommendations.
Hungry yet? Plump up and let’s move on, rather aptly, to…
Watch El Gordo
A nation of gambling swines, the people of Spain like a punt just as much as the next Chinaman (does that stereotype have any truth?). Where does it all come to the fore? With “El Gordo” (The Fat One), Spain’s wildly popular Christmas lottery draw.
So-called due to its fame as the largest (in terms of money paid-out) lottery in the the world, El Gordo has been a staple of Spain’s Christmas celebrations for almost two hundred years. Figuring out how it works however, thanks largely to it’s “share-the-wealth” system, is likely to take just as long.
El Gordo or "The Fat One": makes for essential viewing (cc) alvy
This year for example, Granen, a 2,000 strong town in northern Spain, came out the fattest. Pocketing a total of €720 million ($940 million), winners of the 1,800 tickets (all sold in the Granen) each recieved €400,000 for their €20 ticket ($27). Confused yet? I know I am.
Worry less about the system though and more about the party itself. With 98% of the country taking part, head to any of the country’s bars or cafes and watch as the fun unfolds. With the draw lasting several hours (and Spain being Spain) I challenge anyone not to come out of this one sober.
If you missed the boat of making the lottery part of what to see in Spain this Christmas, the country’s second biggest draw “El Niño” (the child) takes place on January 6. Expect just as much fun.
Wondering what you’d do with all that money? Check out The Spain Scoop’s preview of El Gordo.
Boxing Day Attractions
With the rest of Spain taking a serious siesta on Boxing Day perhaps now is your chance to check out Spain’s key attractions free of the crowds.
Barcelona's Sagrada Familia: excellent any time of year but especially at Christmas (cc) daomna111
Most of Spain’s premier sights are open on December 26th from the morning to late afternoon. Sites like Barcelona’s Sagrada Familia, Madrid’s Prado Museum and Seville’s Plaza de España are essential answers to what to see in Spain at any time of year. Not just when old Papa Noel decides to pop down our passages.
Stuck for ideas on what to see in Spain at Christmas? Check out Nomadic Matt’s recommendations.
La Misa del Gallo
Christmas logs, sweets and gamblers aside, the strangely titled Misa del Gallo or “Mass of the Rooster”, named after the midnight rooster crow just after Jesus was born (did that really happen?), is a sight to behold.
Waiting to head out on the streets and join La Misa Del Gallo (cc) Vikingo's Pub
Celebrated at midnight on Christmas Eve, catch Spaniards in full festive mode as they parade through the city streets carrying torches, playing guitars and beating on tambourines and drums. The best places to catch it? Small provincial cities where the whole town will usually come out and convene in the main squares. Gutted I’ll miss this one in Cáceres!
So that’s it for my list of what to see in Spain at Christmas. Have I missed anything that seriously kicks ass?
What are you lovely lot doing for yuletide? Spare a thought for the Christmas poo!
Thanks for the mention! And I’d love to hear you tell us about Boxing Day…?
@Lauren I’ve not had the pleasure of spending Boxing Day in Spain yet so I’m not too sure! How have you spent yours?
Man, the lotto is SUCH a big deal here. When I first came to Spain I couldn’t believe how many educated, normal human beings buy a huge load of lotto tickets in hopes of beating the odds. I’d love to study the psychology behind why it’s so much more popular in Spain than in the US…
@Rebecca Have you ever played it yourself? What are the laws on foreigners giving it a go?
Wow, Catalunya, why are you so fascinated by what goes on behind the bathroom door? I recently saw caganers, pooping figurines placed in nativity scenes, for sale in Madrid’s Christmas markets. Orange Polka Dot also has info on (and terrific pics of) these little squatters.
@Cassandra – it’s no doubt a really odd tradition. Did you not fancy purchasing one of those little poopers during your meander around the Madrid markets?
So they’re poo pinatas? Crazy, but fun! All of these traditions sound like they’d be a great time! Hope you’re getting to enjoy many of them!
@femmefrugality Yup! Poo pinatas in a better sense of the word. Want to go hit some with me next year?